Oh Milan. The lush furs, the shiny leather, the androgynous military look with gothic romanticism…..It’s pretty, it’s dark, it’s been done. Even that baroque showing….seems reminiscent hm?
I love Milan but I think the top fashion houses are struggling rather. Here are a few highlights including Jill Sander’s lady like colour palette, Max Mara’s too cool for you silhouette, and Gianfranco Ferre’s architectural lines.
London Fall Fashion Week sees a focus on jeweled tones particularly in shades of green and gold tones. Constructed skirts and jackets are a highlight with more comfortable open silhouettes. Top must haves include Burberry’s bird motif sweaters, Mulberry’s jeweled toned snake skin bag, and Williamson’s cut out dresses. Favourite is the simple chic and elegant outfits presented by Aquascutum.
The second half of 2012 shows New York fall collections taking a trend for sharp clean tailoring, with a focus on pristine shapes and muted colours with a nod to British aristocratic masculinity. 1960s flapper silhouette still has a lingering hold with a brief flirt with fishtail skirts giving more of a womanly twist. Highlights include Derek Lam’s cable knits and leather pieces, Marc Jacob’s brilliant purple jacket and Proenza Schouler’s japanese inspired mini skirts. My favourite however is Donna Karan who’ve certainly made a strong comeback from recent years- her minimal but strong design with assents of origami should make a leading forecast for what’s to come in 2013.
Herve Leger by Max Azria
Designers who show at Paris knows how to take risks, to be adventurous and daring and stylish. Fashion Week was filled with barely sheer fabrics, relaxed tailoring, jewel tones rests alongside bright pastels and crochet lace took prime spot. With the dismissal of Galliano, all eyes were on Dior’s and Galliano’s namesake showings as well as Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen collection, all rising to the occasion. Highlights include Yves Saint Laurent’s stunning work to evening wear, Nina Ricci’s delicate gold leaf accents, Ackermann’s pseudo-fantasy safari and Elie Saab’s flawless gowns. Now to convince everyone I need a Balmain jacket to add to my wardrobe because they’re divine.
Yves Saint Laurent